Monday, March 11, 2013

Weight distributing hitches- Lessons learned

Weight  Distributing  Hitches
     

         
     I've  used the EZ lift weight  distributing  hitch  system on our 28' RV trailer when towing  for years.
I've  always  incorporated the  sway control system with it to help when in a high wind area or  with the  passing  of  Semi-trucks  passing  me on the freeways and was quite pleased with the way that the trailer handled when hooked up.
     I never  gave the system much thought  when hooked  up to our  GMC 3500 Dually  pickup as it was never  near the  towing  capacity  of the  truck.  I thought  that because  we were  planning  on hauling  down a 1/2  ton of  hay in the front  of the trailer and filling  2  55 gaalon drums with water  once we  arrived  in Arizona; I should  give them some  thought.
    For those  of you that  don't know what their intended purpose is, I'll try to explain and tell you some thing s that I learned along the  way. The  spring  bars are  connected to a control head which becomes your  hitch. Their  main purpose is to level your  trailer and  tow rig to equalize the  load to all of the tires. Without them the trialer  will have  a tendancy to "push down" on the hitch which raises the steering axle on the tow rig which can lead to reduced steering  and  braking function to the front  axles.
It can also cause a  reduced  level of braking ability on the  rear axles of the  trailer because they're riding  lighter than the front axles of the trailer. So actually they are a good idea to have on if your  load is not  level.
     So here are some  drawbacks. You can actually  set the  lift bars too tight on the trailer. This can be a hazard if you are  hauling an aluminum trailer  like our 4 horse  Cicle J. This trailer  has an Aluminum Tongue  which is a 3"x4" tubing. When you are  traveling down the  road and going through those dips in the road the  bars spring and  attempt to stabilize  the  truck and  trailer  so that it moves as a single  unit. This also puts stresses on the trailer tongue at the  same time.  The other  time that you are  stressing the trailer tongue is when you are  pulling  in and out  of things like  ramped gas station entrances and  supermarkets.
      The  bars  typically  come in different  weight ranges which are  500#, 750#, 1000# & 1400#. All that means its that the  heavier the rating , the harder it is to spring the bar and the  heavier the tongue weight  can be. One  word of  Caution on all of this is that you should NEVER exceed what the manufacturer recommends what the  towing  capacity of your  tow rig should be. The  other thing is (something that I didn't  know) is that ALL of the  spring bars for any weight  distributing  hitch  are  30" typically. You should not cut any  bar; they are rated at the end of the  bar where the chain is attached or where they connect to the Spring  bar latching  mechanism.
      So here is what I learned. The  trailer  tongue  on the  Circle  J horse  trailer  is shorter  than the one on our RV. Why does this matter?  When I hooked up the  chains on the  lift  bar to the  latching  mechanisms they were back at a 45 degree angle and the brackets were as far rearward as they could go. the  brackets were  tight  up against the  crossmember  of the  trailer  which is  welded  aluminum channel. This was all while the  trailer was straight with the tow rig. If I were  to make a left or right  turn with it like this, it could have cracked the weld on the crossbeam of the tongue or bent and  caused damage to the  overall tongue of the  trailer. This was  not a good situation.
     I called  Bickford  Ford in Snohomish where we bought  the trailer and talked to Maggi Clarke about it. Maggie has  sold  trailers all over the  Northwest and  really  knows her stuff when it comes to trailers. She had heard of this situation before  and knew  of  a  solution. She  directed me to a company  called  6 Roblee's that specialize in trailer parts. The Draw- Tite  hitch company made a part that is now  discontinued. It is a bracket that bolts on the end of your spring bar and moves the chain from 30" toeither 28" or  26" from the hitch ball. Now the  lift chain hangs straight  down from the latching mechanism , the bracket is way away from the  crossbeam on the tongue, I have  full range of the turning  radius of the  truck and I can back without  fear of breaking something. I still have to watch how tight  I cinch up the  chain using the  1000# spring bars but, I think I've  got that figured pretty good. Especially when we  took it out for the  test ride we did yesterday. The  good  part is that the  chain is now hanging straight down as it should be. When the rig turns to the Left  the  bar on the  drivers side moves towards the rear of the trailer so this movement is criticle. When the  rig turns to the  right, the passenger bar moves to the rear of the trailer so it is really important that the  chain hangs straight down when the  rig is pointed straight.
     The  other thing is that the  truck and  trailer are  both level now which is exactly what the weight  distributing  system is suppose to accomplish; which is a good thing.




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